Flash lines / mould lines.

[derjager]

Question. On the smaller figs. how do you handle mould lines or flash? Seems to me a file would destroy any detail present on 6mm or under. Can't see using a knife either on so small a fig.
Too bad soft lead can no longer be used. With lead figs a fingernail could remove the lines.

--dj--Joe

[GameWorks]

True DJ,
However, I do use a small needle file to remove flash when it's too thick for an xacto knife. I have several different file shapes which give me the ability to choose which will work best for the area that has the flash. For instance I use a round rasp type of needle file that is about 1.5mm in diameter (tapered to less than 1mm at the tip) that will allow me to get into under-arms, elbows, etc. I have a triangle needle file (actually two different sizes - about 4mm and one that is about 2.5mm and tapers to about 1.5mm on the end) that I use to file certain types of edges - like chainmail, armor, helmets, etc. It does take a little practice and development of technique to make it work, but the results are well worth it. I have a larger flat file and another triangular file that are probably somewhere around 5mm wide that I use for shaping bases and such, and I also have a smaller flat needle file. These work very well for me, but I must admit, the only 6mm figures that I have done are micro-armor which usually requires no cleanup or it is very little. Most of my smallest scale cleanup work has been with 10mm but I don't see why it would be any different.

TIp: To do Knightly Amor and similar stuff, you would use the triangle's "V" edge to get into the recesses and the flat part for the smooth areas to take down any flash. Also, if it's not plate mail, you would want to change the angle every several strokes to keep from cutting an actual "V" into the figure - this seems to work well with chain mail - at least for me (technique).